An Bang Beach, and coming to grips w/ imaging a world without homemade mango morning smoothies
For the past few days we’ve been roughing it. Wednesday, Rebecca went for a three-hour spa treatment, while I walked around the ancient city of Hoi An. Later we had what happened to be one of the more-tasty meals of our lives, and the bill came to right under $20.00. We’ve been staying in a place that we could only dream of in California, and well, there’s fresh fruit everyday and the beach is about a 2 minute walk down the path.
Forgive me for getting lost with my feet in the sand, and having my hands tied up with (below $1.00) beers so much so that I haven’t been able to type.
Following our trip to Ha Long Bay, our bus was delayed, like the boat, and like the train before that (also, stay tuned for my transport post to follow this one). Being that we had to make a flight to Da Nang (yes, famous for China Beach, and the “Vietnam” war; which by the way is referred to as the “American” War here), Ethnic Travel paid for a private car to take us the three hours to make our flight. Bidding farewell (at least for a time) to our new Belgian and French friends, we sat back and relaxed with extra leg room in the Toyota vehicle that resembles what a Mazda 5 and (Toyota) Highlander would make if they were to conceive.
Making our flight with an hour to spare we enjoyed our last few minutes of Hanoi over bowls of pho, and a Bia Ha Noi.
The flight went quickly, and was efficient, though – as usual – I slept through the entire thing. If there was an award for “most-able to sleep soundly on 90 minute flights” … I’d surely win it.
Our cab driver in Da Nang was short and bit squatty, and gave the aura of someone who may believe they’re the greatest greatest driver on the planet and yet win fit the bill as arguably “the most reckless and anxious driver in the world.” While we’re handing out awards, I’ll keep rolling with it. But, seriously, we witnessed someone who was able to honk at nearly everything that moved, while swerving around that person on a bike, car, or motorbike. Even the palm branches got honks, as we sped through the shiny town on the way to our fancy hotel, Ala Carte Da Nang.
We survived, and paid the man. But not before he pulled the correct bills from Rebecca’s hands as she tried to discern the confusing currency in the shadow of our 23 story hotel.
For $90/night our room, on the 20th floor was easily the nicest room I’ve ever stayed. Rooftop access that blows the W Hotel in Hollywood out of the water, or off the Boulevard, and cocktails that top out at about $8/each. We enjoyed some pizza, and calamari, and then crashed prematurely as Friday the 13th part III played on Cinemax.
The next day, we paid the small fee to eat the all-you-can-eat breakfast that had Vietnamese and “Western” options a-plenty. Couple that with the best (or most-familiar) cup of coffee since flying into Hanoi, and it was yet again, one of the best breakfasts I’ve been afforded in my life. Rebecca and I discussed the future over fried rice, and the (2nd) omelet the man made for me; talking of where we’d like to live in 5 years, if staying in L.A. is what we really want to do, and discussing how I can get the motivation to keep up this writing thing that, well, I’ve enjoyed since making myself start doing in on that second day in Hanoi.
Our 11 a.m. car came quickly, so we checked out without seeing much of Da Nang, save from the crazy taxi-driver’s backseat, and what we could see from our hotel. We had booked to stay at the An Bang Beach Seaside Village (see previous post) at $65/night, we didn’t really know what to expect but that it was close to the beach. And that, my friends, is good enough for me.
And that’s kind of where the story of the last 4 days has been left.
Each day, outside of today, we’ve risen when we’ve wanted to. We’ve enjoyed ordering breakfast off the menu that local people in the village make for us; including fresh fruits, mango smoothies, omelets, and coffee. Following breakfast I write, or read from the local (English) Vietnamese News paper, before we climb into our swimsuits and walk down the windy path, past other home stays, to the beach where we then soak up sun under umbrellas, drinking cheap cold beers, and swimming in the perfectly-warm South China Sea water. It’s not been bad.
At night we've been taxiing to Hoi An, where we've enjoyed some of the best Vietnamese food imaginable, and where we've been able to both enjoy the classic architecture and pick up trinkets from the mostly kitchy shops, and have some clothes made (which is a Hoi An must-do).
The people we’ve met in our stay have been wonderful, as well. Hoa, who is the receptionist of the little 2nd floor bungalow we’ve been renting, has been extremely helpful, and has even directed us to some of the best restaurants in the area. The people we’ve met on the beach, including the vendors who we calmly (and mostly) turn down when they ask if we want to buy any trinkets, to the woman in charge of “renting” us a chair, and who brings the cold Bia Saigon with a smile, to the other travelers who all seem to feel the same way we do, in that we’ve found a special place here.
It’ll be hard to leave.
But leave we must do. Tomorrow we head to Saigon (or Ho Chi Minh City, if you’re so proper). There we hope to soak up the last few days of our honeymoon, and travels; back into the fray with the motorbikes, and street vendors. Here’s to hoping that we can find just one more bowl of that great Bun Cha or Pho before we leave.
More to come!
Look for my reflections on our day trip to Mỹ Sơn; a UNESCO world heritage site, which was significantly damaged during the Vietnam/American war. And (!) the detailed description of all the transport we’ve done since we’ve been in Vietnam.
